Although basically similar, days are beginning to be different. Last
night we ran into a 25 knots wind with 12 feet seas which forced us to
take the 3rd reef to make it possible for the Monitor to keep steering.
We are rolling very heavily now continuously, and cooking, changing
clothes and even sleeping becomes a little more challenging.
The sun is more and more present and the solar panels love it. We will
keep running the genset in the morning so as to use the toaster for
breakfast, but we won't need it for the batteries.
As I was taking the third reef, I noticed that one slider has had its
webbing undone. I don't see myself sewing it back in these conditions,
but on the other hand, as long as it is only one (it is a small
intermediary one), we should be OK.
Also, I was a little bit ambitious and I tried to rig the boom for the
genoa. There was too much compression on it and it almost snapped in two
parts. Fortunately I had time to take it down before anything bad
happened. I will have to figure out another way. Right now, we took the
sheet all the way back to the stern of the boat and we lower the clew
with a block and tackle next to the shrouds. It does a very good job and
we keep our speed between 5.5 and 6.5
We still expect to arrive in Fatu Hiva on August 18th early afternoon.
At noon, almost to the minute, another mahi-mahi struck and
Jean-Francois was able to bring it on board without us slowing down. It
was only around 5 pounds, but it will make a very nice dinner, and then
some.
The sea temperature is beginning to ride, now at 79.3 and we should be
getting away from the influence of the Humbold current. But I still
don't understand where this 25 knots wind comes from. Neither the grib
file on Max Sea nor the Papy Jovial Weather Service had seen that and
were telling us to be ready for a 20 knots wind which is still more
than 400 miles away ahead of us. Don't always believe the weatherman !
Friday, July 31, 2009
Thursday, July 30, 2009
The Great Blue
At last, the blue sky is with us. Almost. Still quite a few clouds, but
I have 17 amps on the solar panels, so the must be something right.
Meanwhile the wind has veered SE and with it all the problems related to
sailing with the wind on the quarter aft. For the Monitor to work, the
sails have to be well balanced, which means almost 2 reefs in the main.
This in turns causes us to loose speed and steering becomes more difficult.
Tomorrow morning, if the conditions are the same, we will set up the
Gennaker and see if the boat is better balanced.
Meanwhile, we came 152 miles closer to our destination over the next 24
hours, while covering 156 miles over the ground. That is because a
sailboat rarely goes on a straight line for ever and the zigzaging costs
a few miles. In the last 5 days (and 6 hours) we have consumed 15.5
gallons of water, that is an average of 2.95 per day. And we don't smell
that bad yet !
The sea temperature is still at 75, the air went up to 81 and the wind
is SE at 14 knots. At 6 knots we still expect to arrive on August 18
early afternoon.
Today, the fishing line is out again as we now need to catch a nice tuna.
I have 17 amps on the solar panels, so the must be something right.
Meanwhile the wind has veered SE and with it all the problems related to
sailing with the wind on the quarter aft. For the Monitor to work, the
sails have to be well balanced, which means almost 2 reefs in the main.
This in turns causes us to loose speed and steering becomes more difficult.
Tomorrow morning, if the conditions are the same, we will set up the
Gennaker and see if the boat is better balanced.
Meanwhile, we came 152 miles closer to our destination over the next 24
hours, while covering 156 miles over the ground. That is because a
sailboat rarely goes on a straight line for ever and the zigzaging costs
a few miles. In the last 5 days (and 6 hours) we have consumed 15.5
gallons of water, that is an average of 2.95 per day. And we don't smell
that bad yet !
The sea temperature is still at 75, the air went up to 81 and the wind
is SE at 14 knots. At 6 knots we still expect to arrive on August 18
early afternoon.
Today, the fishing line is out again as we now need to catch a nice tuna.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Nothing to report
No real change compared to the previous day. All night, we had to fight
to keep a decent speed as the force of the wind was yoyoing between 5
and 18 knots. It paid off. For the last 24 hours we have covered 155
nautical miles and we are now true South of Isla Santa Maria oof the
Galapagos archipelago, a little more than 100 miles away. I am now
expecting to arrive in Fatu Hiva between August 20 and August 18.
We have suspended fishing as long as we have not eaten yet the 15 pounds
Mahi caught the day before yesterday. And the freezer is still full of
meat and fish bought at Harris Teeter in Norfolk before I left.
Last night there was lamb chops and green beans on the menu, with
chilean Cabernet Concha y Toro which is quite drinkable.
The skies are still overcast, but not as dark as they used to be. Some
of the clouds are actually white. I am hoping that by tomorrow we will
at last see the sun. After all, everybody told me that once you have
passed the Galapagos, you are truly in the South Pacific weather, with
blue sky, blue water and all that . . .
I am now expecting to arrive in Fatu Hiva between August 20 and August 18.
to keep a decent speed as the force of the wind was yoyoing between 5
and 18 knots. It paid off. For the last 24 hours we have covered 155
nautical miles and we are now true South of Isla Santa Maria oof the
Galapagos archipelago, a little more than 100 miles away. I am now
expecting to arrive in Fatu Hiva between August 20 and August 18.
We have suspended fishing as long as we have not eaten yet the 15 pounds
Mahi caught the day before yesterday. And the freezer is still full of
meat and fish bought at Harris Teeter in Norfolk before I left.
Last night there was lamb chops and green beans on the menu, with
chilean Cabernet Concha y Toro which is quite drinkable.
The skies are still overcast, but not as dark as they used to be. Some
of the clouds are actually white. I am hoping that by tomorrow we will
at last see the sun. After all, everybody told me that once you have
passed the Galapagos, you are truly in the South Pacific weather, with
blue sky, blue water and all that . . .
I am now expecting to arrive in Fatu Hiva between August 20 and August 18.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Fish for dinner
The posting for yesterday's blog had just gone when I heard again the
fishing line buzzing. Another strike, this time at around 2:00 p.m.,
While Jean-Francois was taking care of the line, I dropped the main,
rolled up the genoa and came to a heave to position. We did not want to
loose it this time.
It took a little bit longer to do it than to write it up, but we finally
got in the boat a mahi-mahi approximatively 15 pounds. This time, it did
not get the shot of rhum that we usually use but a shot of a cherry
liqor that we definitely won't drink. The rest of the afternoon was
spent cutting up the fish and cleaning the boat. Actually, Jean-Francois
was doing it and I was watching.
Other than that, we kept moving, very much in the same conditions, I
mean, no blue sky, but the wind got a little stronger, around 20 to 24
knots apparent, all night. We took 2 reefs and rolled up the genoa just
a little bit, but the speed stayed at around 7 knots.
Today at noon (18:00 Z time), we had covered 454 miles since Manta and
we have 3069 miles left for Fatu Hiva. We are south south west of the
Galapagos, and we will pass south of them at around 85 miles.
Since the start, we have used 10.2 gallons of water, have used the
engine 2.1 hours and the genset 4 hours, thanks to the cloudy skies when
the solar panels go on strike.
At 5.5 knots, we should arrive in Fatu Hiva on August 20st around 6:00
p.m. local time. At 6.0 knots, it would be the 18th at the same time.
But where is the blue sky that you see on all postcards about the
Pacific Ocean ?
fishing line buzzing. Another strike, this time at around 2:00 p.m.,
While Jean-Francois was taking care of the line, I dropped the main,
rolled up the genoa and came to a heave to position. We did not want to
loose it this time.
It took a little bit longer to do it than to write it up, but we finally
got in the boat a mahi-mahi approximatively 15 pounds. This time, it did
not get the shot of rhum that we usually use but a shot of a cherry
liqor that we definitely won't drink. The rest of the afternoon was
spent cutting up the fish and cleaning the boat. Actually, Jean-Francois
was doing it and I was watching.
Other than that, we kept moving, very much in the same conditions, I
mean, no blue sky, but the wind got a little stronger, around 20 to 24
knots apparent, all night. We took 2 reefs and rolled up the genoa just
a little bit, but the speed stayed at around 7 knots.
Today at noon (18:00 Z time), we had covered 454 miles since Manta and
we have 3069 miles left for Fatu Hiva. We are south south west of the
Galapagos, and we will pass south of them at around 85 miles.
Since the start, we have used 10.2 gallons of water, have used the
engine 2.1 hours and the genset 4 hours, thanks to the cloudy skies when
the solar panels go on strike.
At 5.5 knots, we should arrive in Fatu Hiva on August 20st around 6:00
p.m. local time. At 6.0 knots, it would be the 18th at the same time.
But where is the blue sky that you see on all postcards about the
Pacific Ocean ?
Monday, July 27, 2009
Blue Sky
One thing since I left Fort Lauderdale is the continuous lack of blue
sky. Whether in the Bahamas, in the Caribbean between Port Antonio and
Panama, through the Panama Canal, to Manta, in Manta and now out of
Manta, it is grey, grey, grey with temperatures in the 70s. This
morning, at last, we had a few minutes of blue sky, but that did not last.
On the other hand, we are very lucky with the wind. We left Manta 54
hours ago and we have already covered 303 miles, and it will likely
improve as we get more favourable wind. It is very possible that we
would arrive in Fatu Hiva on August 18th.
Few numbers : since we left Manta, we have used the engine 2 hours, we
have consumed 6.2 gallons of fresh water, we have caught one fish (a 3
pounds tuna), rejected one because we did not know what it was, and
today shortly before lunch a Mahi Mahi took the lure, but as we got it 6
feet from the boat, the line broke and off went lunch, dinner and sushi.
I have to deal with continuous problems on the boat computer. Today it
froze again and I took the precaution of setting up the back up computer
(Toshiba laptop Satellite), connected it to the Iridium phone and made
sure MaxSea and all the charts are there. Based on the fact that Bob
(the computer manufacturer) has from the start suspected the power
supply, I have repositionned the computer to give more room to the
connection cable and see what happens. But for now on, all Internet
connection via the sat phone will be done through the Toshiba, and the
boat computer will be used only for MaxSea.
I am also worried a little bit about the windvane Monitor. It had been
damaged in Manta when the swell and the tide pushed the boat against the
floating dock, pushed the pendulum forward and bent slightly the plate
on which sits the lower part of the gear. We unbent that plate using
pipe wrenches, but somehow this has resulted into a gap of 1/16th of an
inch between the lower part and the upper part of the gear.
As a result, mister Monitor is rattling its teeth and I hope it will not
get further damaged.
Other than that, Jean-Francois and I are truly enjoying the ride. So
far, the Pacific ocean is proving to be quite friendly and we are moving
along very comfortably. Let's hope it will remain like that.
At noon today, we had 3215 miles left to the anchorage in Fatu Hiva.
sky. Whether in the Bahamas, in the Caribbean between Port Antonio and
Panama, through the Panama Canal, to Manta, in Manta and now out of
Manta, it is grey, grey, grey with temperatures in the 70s. This
morning, at last, we had a few minutes of blue sky, but that did not last.
On the other hand, we are very lucky with the wind. We left Manta 54
hours ago and we have already covered 303 miles, and it will likely
improve as we get more favourable wind. It is very possible that we
would arrive in Fatu Hiva on August 18th.
Few numbers : since we left Manta, we have used the engine 2 hours, we
have consumed 6.2 gallons of fresh water, we have caught one fish (a 3
pounds tuna), rejected one because we did not know what it was, and
today shortly before lunch a Mahi Mahi took the lure, but as we got it 6
feet from the boat, the line broke and off went lunch, dinner and sushi.
I have to deal with continuous problems on the boat computer. Today it
froze again and I took the precaution of setting up the back up computer
(Toshiba laptop Satellite), connected it to the Iridium phone and made
sure MaxSea and all the charts are there. Based on the fact that Bob
(the computer manufacturer) has from the start suspected the power
supply, I have repositionned the computer to give more room to the
connection cable and see what happens. But for now on, all Internet
connection via the sat phone will be done through the Toshiba, and the
boat computer will be used only for MaxSea.
I am also worried a little bit about the windvane Monitor. It had been
damaged in Manta when the swell and the tide pushed the boat against the
floating dock, pushed the pendulum forward and bent slightly the plate
on which sits the lower part of the gear. We unbent that plate using
pipe wrenches, but somehow this has resulted into a gap of 1/16th of an
inch between the lower part and the upper part of the gear.
As a result, mister Monitor is rattling its teeth and I hope it will not
get further damaged.
Other than that, Jean-Francois and I are truly enjoying the ride. So
far, the Pacific ocean is proving to be quite friendly and we are moving
along very comfortably. Let's hope it will remain like that.
At noon today, we had 3215 miles left to the anchorage in Fatu Hiva.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Out of Manta
Although I still believe that this was a necessary stop, let alone the
fact that we had to stop somewhere in Ecuador to allow David to go home,
we are quite pleased to be out of that place. The two things that were
most unpleasant, were the constant swell which, combined with the tide,
made the boat move around a lot and actually almost destroyed the
windvane, and the black dust which would cover the boat in less than
half a day after we had washed it thoroughly.
The time it took and the cost of the entry formalities are not uncommon
or unexpected in this kind of country. The total cost for the clearance
in and out was 280 dollars, but the cost of the marina, including the
use of their facilities and the dockage was only 100 dollars. So all in
all, not bad from that view point.
Anyway, we left Saturday morning at 6:30 after a night of loud music at
the Yacht Club, with a party going on all night. The weather was in a
somber mood, overcast, cold (70 degrees), but little wind to work with.
It only took us 2 hours of motoring to turn the corner and since then,
we are sailing with conditions that are constantly improving.
Today, Sunday noon, we have the wind on the beam, we are doing 7 knots
over the ground and we were able shortly to see a little piece of blue
sky. Not bad.
Yesterday late in the afternoon we caught a small fish, probably not
more than a pound, but since we did not know what it was, we threw it
back in the ocean.
At noon today, we had 3358 nautical miles to go to get to Fatu Hiva, our
first destination in the Marquesas. If the conditions remain the same,
as in all probabilities it will, we might get there in a little over 23
days, therefore around August 18.
fact that we had to stop somewhere in Ecuador to allow David to go home,
we are quite pleased to be out of that place. The two things that were
most unpleasant, were the constant swell which, combined with the tide,
made the boat move around a lot and actually almost destroyed the
windvane, and the black dust which would cover the boat in less than
half a day after we had washed it thoroughly.
The time it took and the cost of the entry formalities are not uncommon
or unexpected in this kind of country. The total cost for the clearance
in and out was 280 dollars, but the cost of the marina, including the
use of their facilities and the dockage was only 100 dollars. So all in
all, not bad from that view point.
Anyway, we left Saturday morning at 6:30 after a night of loud music at
the Yacht Club, with a party going on all night. The weather was in a
somber mood, overcast, cold (70 degrees), but little wind to work with.
It only took us 2 hours of motoring to turn the corner and since then,
we are sailing with conditions that are constantly improving.
Today, Sunday noon, we have the wind on the beam, we are doing 7 knots
over the ground and we were able shortly to see a little piece of blue
sky. Not bad.
Yesterday late in the afternoon we caught a small fish, probably not
more than a pound, but since we did not know what it was, we threw it
back in the ocean.
At noon today, we had 3358 nautical miles to go to get to Fatu Hiva, our
first destination in the Marquesas. If the conditions remain the same,
as in all probabilities it will, we might get there in a little over 23
days, therefore around August 18.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
In Manta
Having spent up to Tuesday waiting for custons and immigration clearance, we did not have a chance to see much of Ecuador. We took care of the few problems on the boat (fixing the Windvane, clearing the shaft that was wrapped in a fishing net, trying to fix the steaming light that I dropped on deck and broke) and walked around a little in Manta.
Wednesday morning, free at last, we rented a car and went to Bahia Caraquez where we were told that most sailboats would be. Ge got lost a few times on the way but finally made it and stopped at a marina called "Puerto Amistad Yacht Club".
If ever you go by boat to Ecuador, this is the place where you want to make your entry. Do not, repeat do not go to Esmeralda, where crime is high and where entry formalities might cost you as much as a thousand dollars.
In Puerto Amistad, you will not be alongside, you will have to take a mooring, but you will get much better facilities, and much better suited to sailboats than in Manta. You will also save a bundle of money on entry formalities and on fuel. The web site for this marina is "www.PuertoAmistadEcuador.com"
The owner is american and speaks fluent spanish as well of course as english. Might help those like me whose fluent spanish is still a dream to come true.
Other than that, the drive to Bahia reminded me of driving in some other countries like Uganda or Haiti, where you keep looking for the one stretch of road, right or left, that has some tarmac on it. Also, there are a great number of steep speed bumps, unmarked, and it is easy to see them too late and have to step on the brakes real hard.
We rode through a variety of sceneries, either dirty and dusty desert, or plains in the valley with various kinds of crops being cultivated.
Back in Manta, we did part of the final provisionning (veggies and fruits will be done last). I still have to recover my mail and the hard drive that were shipped to me from the US, and also try and get the "Zarpe" (outgoing clearance), promised to me for two hours ago.
I had time to upload some of the photos taken so far, but I won't have time to place them on the blog. You will have to go and look at the photo album.
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